Bra: The History of the King of Lingerie
If there's one item of clothing no woman can do without, it's the bra : besides being a key element that allows each woman to express her personality and enhance her body shape, it's essential for safeguarding her health . Today , through this in-depth study, we want to retrace the history of this lingerie must-have .
When was the bra invented? 
Over time, the need to feel comfortable and secure, the desire to seduce, lifestyle, and the need for protection have repeatedly shaped and changed the function of the bra in social contexts.
The first historical references to the use of a piece of cloth to support the chest date back to Crete around 1,700 BC .
It was then the ancient Romans who wore the “strophium”: a piece of cloth that served not only to support the breasts but above all acted as a symbol of civilization capable of delineating a perfect boundary from barbarian women who, on the contrary, left their breasts free.
Moving forward in time , more precisely in the years of corsets and hoop skirts (15th century), while ladies were obliged to submit to such fashion canons to participate in court life, there was a widespread (but never declared) custom among common women: using pieces of cotton crossed over the chest to protect the breasts.
Who invented the first bra in history?
There are different versions of who invented the bra: the story of the birth of the bra is disputed between two women.
The first is the French dressmaker Herminie Cadolle who, in 1889, designed a garment very similar to a corset but “broken” in two .
The second is Mary Phelps Jacob , daughter of Robert Fulton (inventor of the steam engine). In 1914, Mary bought a cocktail dress to wear to a party: she realized that the corset was clearly visible and took her breath away. So, with the help of two silk scarves and a ribbon, she anticipated what would become the modern bra.
Although it is unclear who actually patented this underwear, what is certain is that both protagonists of this story shared a common desire: to break the rigidity of the corset and give women the freedom to move while adequately supporting their breasts.
Let's get to know them better.
Who is Herminie Cadolle?
The Frenchwoman Herminie Cadolle split the corset into two pieces, breaking with tradition and creating the corselete-gorge , a completely new piece that supports only the breasts.
Returning to Paris in 1889 after a period spent in Spain, she opened a lingerie workshop on the Chaussée d'Antin, where she invented a two-piece underwear garment called the bien-être (well-being) : the lower part acted as a corset for the waist and the upper part supported the breasts with shoulder straps.
In order for the head to gain mobility, he incorporated pieces of rubber to provide mobility to the back .
Herminie's goal was very specific: to liberate the body, allowing women to put away their rigid and unbearable corsets forever.
Who is Mary Phelp Jacob?
1914 seems to be the official year the bra was patented and entered women's wardrobes with widespread enthusiasm. The protagonist of this fashion revolution was Mary Phelp Jacob.
Her bra design featured straps that attached to the top and bottom corners of the garment and wraparound ties attached to the bottom corners that tied in the front.
His invention was suitable for women of different sizes and was so efficient that it could be worn by people even involved in sports such as tennis.
Its design was light, soft and comfortable to wear and naturally separated the breasts, unlike the corset, which was intended to create a “single-breasted” effect.
Why do women wear bras?
The rationale for why women wear bras has changed much based on the historical period that influenced the habits and consumption of society.
In the years BC it was a necessary garment for women, especially for sports.
In Ancient Rome, it served to compress – because large breasts were associated with women of easy virtue – and to clearly distinguish barbarians from civilized women.
In the 1920s it was very useful for flattening the breasts , which, the smaller they appeared, the more fashionable they were considered.
In the 1950s, the bra became an instrument of seduction thanks to Hollywood films and divas.
It was director Howard Hughes who commissioned an aeronautical engineer to build a bra that "throws" the chest forward. His favorite actress, Jane Russell, would wear it in the film "The Outlaw."
The bra as we know it today , that is, as a true element to show off one's femininity and sensuality, found its historical place only at the end of the 20th century.
History and evolution of the bra
To recap, the bra traveled far and wide before becoming the lingerie item we know today.
Here are the most important stages in the history of its evolution:
- 1700 BC the bra was called “strophium” and for women of the time wearing it was synonymous with civilization and a clear distinction from barbarian women .
- During the late Middle Ages, bodices were in almost daily use , but only for women who did not have to engage in strenuous activities.
- During the Renaissance, showing off one's curves was very fashionable , especially for noblewomen who did not breastfeed in order to maintain an ideal physical shape.
- In the 15th century, wearing bras was socially frowned upon. In fact, it was mostly worn by prostitutes in brothels .
- In 1550, Catherine de Medici introduced tight corsets to court, which for a very long time forced ladies to suffer from debilitating pathologies in order to be socially accepted.
- In 1832, the Peugeot family founded their company, which moved from producing saw blades to producing corset tops and then hoop skirts.
- In 1889, the dressmaker Herminie Cadolle designed and engineered the first version of the modern bra that literally “broke” the corset into two pieces.
- In 1893 Marie Tucek patented a chest support: two separate bags for each chest with shoulder straps joined with metal clasps.
- In 1907, the bra was mentioned for the first time in “Vogue” magazine.
- In 1912, designer Otto Titzling claimed to have designed a bra for singer Swanhilda Olafsen, which inspired his design. Otto never patented his design, so he lost the idea of being the creator of the modern bra.
- In 1914, Mary Phelps patented her modern bra design.
- In the 1930s, Russian immigrant Ida Rosenthal invented bra sizes and cups to properly support every type of cleavage.
- In the 1950s, with the rise of Hollywood divas, the concept of the bra was once again revolutionized , becoming a very popular garment of seduction among women who wanted to imitate the look and charm of famous actresses.
- Toward the end of the 20th century, the bra's functionality gained prominence. From then on, it became crucial to develop garments designed for sports, health, or any other purpose.
- Today, in addition to representing the underwear par excellence, the bra also becomes a perfect item of clothing for creating original looks .
How is the bra made?
After a journey lasting centuries in which the bra has transformed itself over and over again, all that remains is to discover in detail how a modern bra is made and what each single element that characterises it is used for.
Let's find out together.
The cups
Nothing more than a couple of pieces of fabric that serve to cover and support the breasts. They can be different, larger or smaller, triangular or balconette, made of silk or cotton ; in short, when it comes to cups , you're spoiled for choice.
The underwire
Loved and hated, the underwire is a precious ally of the cups: it supports the breasts and fights against the force of gravity so that every woman can feel light and wrapped in a pleasant sensation of true relief (physical and moral).
The underwire should be wide and do its job of supporting the bust excellently. At the same time, there are many bras that, even without underwire, guarantee excellent shaping and perfect support.
The shoulder pads
The straps are a fundamental component of the bra, as they support 20% of the décolleté.
They are comfortable and generally adjustable , they can be transparent, made of fabric, colored or white, it all depends on the outfit and the tastes of the wearer.
The band
The true ally of this fantastic garment is the band that surrounds the bust , which holds the cups together and does the real work of supporting the female breast. The fastening is generally found in the back , but even in this case there are models that tie in the front, right between the two cups.
Cotton, silk and lace are the most used fabrics , but the real importance is that they are of quality.
Sensuality and well-being
Today, the bra has a twofold role: on the one hand, as already mentioned, it has undoubtedly become a must-have in lingerie and on the other hand it is essential to use it properly to avoid health problems .
For example, for larger breasts , it is important to choose the best model to allow adequate containment.
An important thing , regardless of breast size, is to avoid choosing models that tend to compress the nipples too much, preventing correct lymphatic drainage and promoting adequate blood circulation.
Always be sure to choose the model that best suits your needs: if you have any doubts, questions, or simply need advice, don't hesitate to contact us. We at Clara Intimo are always here to help you choose and wear the perfect lingerie to enhance your figure.
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